Slideshow random pics

mercredi 11 janvier 2012

Los Arenales


Arrival in Los Arenales....getting cold...brrr


My tent.... too near from the noisy river

Los Arenales, view on Cajon del Maipo I think

That's it...last crag with Hot Rock :(
But maybe the best !!!! And on top of that we spent Christmas over there. This is definitely my highest Christmas ever our camp being at 2.500m :) Christmas means food and even with mostly English people (might have some troubles saying that...) our cook Master Alys and the group managed an awesome meal. Steak (obviously cooked by our South-African driver), cheesy potatoes and yummie veggie mix with this time good wine not in carton.
One interesting stuff that we don't do in France is that in England they party and get pissed with friends on the 24th and have the Christmas dinner on the 25th with the family. So we did that of course and had a briliant truck party since a long time !

Happy christmas Tom !!!

Huw loves his present :)

Chris fears the hangover and keep-up on drinking after the party !! Nice job.

This has nothing to do here....but here's the driver seat...

Our dinner, briliant.

Xmas dinner

Chris and chief cook Alys

Xmas dinner again


Christmas done we had to get back to climbing...and for traditional climbing Los Arenales is THE place. For people who don't know in traditional climbing there are no fixed bolts in the rock and mechanical pieces of gear are used to stop a fall. This is typically used in rock which allow this kind of protection to be used and granit which as a lots of cracks is perfect for that. This adds a new challenge as while climbing you have to think where to protect you, find the good size of protection and place it in the rock. It was one of my goal to train in this kind of climbing especially with people from UK who are used to it.
After doing some easy routes we decided with Huw to a more solid piece of climbing. A 220m route in Aguja Charles Weibber(~3500m) called "Fugas de Cabras"  5 pitches 6b, 5+, 6a+, 6a, 6a all trad except most of the anchors as the line was the abseiling of the peak. After 2h30 of steep...steep...walk we reach the base of the climb completely soaked. I lead the first pitch which was my hardest trad lead, a very steep corner-crack to protect on micro-friends...I reached the first anchor mentally rinsed but happy :) The rest of the climb went very smoothly with my very confident partner, Huw. 


Our gear for the route

Fucking hike...


The campanile alto group. Charles Weibber in the middle

View during the acces hike


Almost ready...strapping

Myself in the first pitch


Huw at the end of the 1st pitch


Huw in the beautiful 3rd pitch 6a+ corner, old school :)

Myself in the 4th 6a pitch

And at the top in the clouds...

View on Campanile Alto

Huw abseiling with a view on the 6b corner crack
We finished the week by spending a full day in a single pitch trad place where we all strugled on a very nice finger crack...

Pumpy 6a flake

Deditos finos haaaaard 6c on nuts !

La Ola

And back to our beloved Argentina... nice people, good food, great wines and pretty girls ! What else ? Climbing of course ! This time we go to one of the most famous sport crag in Argentina, La Ola ! Nice bush camping in a land rented by a farmer family where it's in the middle of goats, chickens, turkeys and kitties that we spent a hard climbing week. The very specificity of the rock here is these carved granit offering very high angle routes. Generally granit is more slabby or vertical like in Los Gigantes or in mountains. On top of that the area was traversed by several rivers offering a nice after climb swim.

La Ola landscapes...rock...rock...rock

Nice pool for after climb swim :)

Our campsite and the kitchen


La Ola sector....the routes in the orange are VERY overhanging :)

Myself falling in Thor the hardest 7a+ in the world....

Alys such a slab star she doesn't need her hands

Steve crushes the crux of a nice 7a

After la Ola we went to Mendoza where the girls had the surprise to have their beds and therefore all their clothes infested with bed bugs... They loved the few hours boiling all their stuff :) And yeah girls always look more clean....heheh

Happy girls :)